Wall to Wall Cable Kit attached to a vertical surface

As you can see from the image below the screw that mounts the kit to the wall is concealed inside the base of the mounting bracket, no unsightly or ugly screws protruding from your wall.

Wall to Wall Cable Kit, used to mount to any vertical surface

“The display windows in Fiji were a knockout, we were so delighted with the finished product and so simple to install using the top and bottom track.”

John Heeley

The same can be said for how low a window display should be. If the window glass goes all the way down to the ground you are not going to get many people reading a listing at foot level. For this reason we usually elevate the first row to about knee height (60 to 70cms high).

If you have a very large window, and I call a large window anything larger than 2.5 metres wide and the display is going into new office and you don’t have many listings you can spread the Acrylic Pockets out over the full width of the window. You can have a look at the different window display pockets we offer in this post by clicking here!

For instance if you use an Acrylic Window Display pocket that is 235mm wide and try and fit another pocket that is 255 wide within the same column (column being vertical) it will look terrible. Even a difference of 10mm to 20mm in width from the pocket immediately above or below affects the overall look and Professionalism of the Window Display. You don’t want bends in your vertical cables, not a good look at all!

You can however still get creative with the use of extra cables and  combinations of Single and Double Sidegrips to form different columns of different sized acrylic pockets.

Mix and Match larger and smaller sized pockets

Now just because the Metal Fitting is inherently lineal doesn’t mean your arrangement has to be dull and boring. You can make use of the different types of pockets to create interesting patterns or focal points. You can also make use of the larger sized pockets for signage to draw the attention of your window shopper.

Create separate columns of pockets so you can mix different sizes.

There is a wide range of Acrylic Window Display Pockets available, please read this post on the Features of the Window Display Pockets

The Acrylic Pockets attach to the Cables using what we call Sidegrips. There are two types of Sidegrips, Single Sidegrips and Double Sidegrips. Let’s look at the Singles first.

Single sidegrips are used on outside cables or to create separate vertical columns

The Sidegrips each have a slot enclosed by a grub screw which makes removing the Sidegrips at any time a simple thing to do.

You can see the slot where the cable fits into and the grub screw that closes the slot

The Double Sidegrips can connect an Acrylic Pocket to the immediate left and right of the Cable. This reduces the number of cables you need but does not allow for greater spacing between each pocket. If you wanted to create greater spacing you would use the Single Sidegrips. The Double Sidegrips also enable you to fit more Window Display Pockets into your window space in some cases.

Double Sidegrip used for connecting both sides of each cable.

The Cable connects to the Double Sidegrip just as the Single Sidegrips do, using a Grub Screw to close off the slot.

Double SIdegrip showing the back view and the Grub Screw closing the cable slot

Floor to Ceiling Cable Kits are a major feature of course. Our Floor to Ceiling Cable Kits have a top fitting (Top Boss) and a bottom Fitting (Floor Anchor) and 4000mm of Stainless Steel Cable. The Top Boss and Floor Anchor are aluminium and have a nice Saturn Finish. The Cable Kits also come with wood screws for use when not using the optional track system available. You cut the track to the height you need on site. You will need a good pair of Cable Cutters to cut through Stainless Steel Cable.

Floor to Ceiling Cable Kit

As you’ll see in this shot below the floor Anchor has a Cable Tensioner. The Tensioner is used to ensure the cable is taught. After you have cut the cable to size you attach the brass nib to the end of the cable with a small grub screw.

Floor Anchor showing tensioner

The Top Boss (Top Cable Fitting) The top of the cable has an attached fitting which is permanently fixed to the end of the top of the cable and this fitting is called the Universal Grip so you don’t cut this end of the cable to shorten the cable, you do this from the other end. The Universal Grip inserts into the Top Boss Fitting and is fixed by tightening two Grub Screws.

Showing the Universal Grip being inserted into the Top Boss Fitting.

You can fix each end of the Cable directly to your Mount Surface or you can use our optional Track System. The track system does a number of things for you. It’s easier to install the Window Display using the tracks as there are less fixing points. The Tracks also enable you to change the size of the Acrylic Pockets any time without having to create new fixing points at each end of the Cable Kits, you simply move the cables further apart and add your larger pockets.

Installed Window Display Tracks

The Cables are connected to the Track using our Track Fittings. The Track Fittings also known as Threadplates are a Diamond shaped object with a Phillips Head Screw (Thread + Plate).

Shows Track Fitting Thread and Plate

You unscrew the Floor Anchor of the Cable Kits and drop the Phillips Head Screw thread first into the bottom of the Floor Anchor and screw the Diamond Shaped Plate onto the Thread.

Track Fitting inserted into the bottom of the Floor Anchor of the Cable Kit

The Track Fitting can be inserted anywhere in the track, it does not have to be inserted at the opening ends of the track. Once the fitting with the bottom of the Floor Anchor is attached to the track by tightening the Phillips Head Screw inside the bottom of the Floor Anchor the Diamond Shape will lock into place against the side of the inside of the track, jeese that was a mouthful!

Track Fittings Inserted into Track.

1. Identify where you intend to locate the top Track ensuring that a perpendicular mount position is available directly below.
2. Ensure that the Tracks provided will fit the location selected; they can be simply cut with a hack saw if needed.
3. Working on the ground (much easier)
4. Roughly measure and mark out the positions for each top cable mounting (Top Boss) on the track with pencil, the cable spacing is measured by using the width of the display sleeve you will be fitting between the cables then include 5mm either side to allow for the Side Grips .
5. Place the lower Track against the marked top Track with both open ends together and transfer your pencil marks to the Lower Track. Because you are using the Track system these marks do not have to be exact as the cable positions can easily be adjusted later.
6. Still working from the ground, locate each Top Boss from the Cable kits and each Track Fitting kit (1x screw 1x Diamond shaped threaded plate)
7. Insert the screw into the Top Boss large opening so it protrudes from small hole and attach the Threaded Plate one or two turns only.
8. From one end of the upturned top Track slide the Threaded plate inside until you reach a pencil mark, centre the Top Boss, insert a Phillips head screw driver and tighten the screw ensuring that the threaded plate is locked into both sides of the Track and is sitting flat . Repeat for each cable mount point.
9. Locate each Floor Anchor by unscrewing it from the Tensioning Sleeve assembly (Note that it is LEFT HAND THREAD) care needed as the lower cable mounting parts are inside. Repeat the same process as section 4 to lower Track.
10. Once all the Top Boss are fitted to Top Track and Floor Anchors to Lower Track the Tracks can be fitted where required ensuring that the Lower Track is placed directly below the top Track either by accurately measuring or plumb-bobbing. Generally a screw at each end (about 100mm in) and one every 300-400mm in- between should suffice.
11. Follow instructions laid out in sections 5 through 9 of the post (Window Display Instructions Without Track).

At this point it is very important that a solid mount is attained to the building / window frame surface (especially the top Track) because this is the point that takes the most strain, firstly, from the cable tensioning and secondly by the ongoing weight of the display. Due to the many different types of surfaces that could be encountered, the mounting fittings are not included for the Top Boss, Floor Anchor or Tracks and should be sourced depending on the surface and circumstance of the fitment.
DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN. It is not necessary the have the Tensioning Sleeve go all the way to meet the Floor Anchor as some springs have more tension and each cable cut may not be exactly the same as the others.

1. Identify where you intend to locate the top mounts ensuring that a perpendicular mount position is available directly below each point.
   (A) Measure and mark out the positions for each top cable mounting (Top Boss), the cable spacing is measured by using the width of the display sleeve you will be fitting between the cables then include 5mm either side to allow for the Side Grips.
2. Fix a Top Boss to each marked point. (Note – mount fittings NOT included)
3. At this point it is very important that a solid mount is attained to the surface because this is the point that takes the most strain , firstly, from the cable tensioning and secondly by the ongoing weight of the display . Due to the many different types of surfaces that could be encountered , the mounting fittings are not included for the Top Boss , Floor Anchor or Tracks and should be sourced depending on the surface and circumstance of the fitment.
4. Locate the Floor Anchor by unscrewing it from the Tensioning Sleeve assembly (Note that it is LEFT HAND THREAD) care needed as the lower cable mounting parts are inside.
5. Fix the Floor Anchor to the lower mount point, ensuring it is directly below each corresponding Top Boss either by measuring accurately or plumb-bobbing.
6. Locate the Stainless Steel Cable and the Universal Grip.
   (a) Firmly secure the Universal Grip to one end of the Cable (some cables have the Universal Grip factory fitted) and insert into the Top Boss and secure with the two side Grub Screws.
7. Unravel the Stainless Steel cables and let them hang from each Top Boss.
   (a) Locate the lower cable mountings removed from the Tensioning Sleeve assembly and thread in turn on the loose end of the cable. (Correct order – Tensioning Sleeve with thread down, Washer, Spring and Spring Cable Grip with spring locating end up).
   (b) Slide these up the cable to a point about 500mm above the Floor Anchor and temporarily lock in place with the grubs screws, care needed, only use enough tension to hold in place,  too much tension could result in damage to the cable.
8. Grip the Stainless Steel Cable and pull down with enough force to straighten the cable and locate a point 5mm from top of the thread of the Floor Anchor and cut the cable with wire side cutters or alike.
9. Loosen the Spring Cable Grip and allow the assembly to side down the cable. Retention the Spring Cable Grip at the end of the cut cable with about 5mm of cable protruding from the end.
10. Screw tensioning sleeve to the Floor Anchor (Remember that it is LEFT HAND THREAD) until cable is straight and taught. If this outcome is not achieved, adjustments can be made moving the spring cable grip up or down the cable and trying again.

DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN
It is not necessary the have the Tensioning Sleeve go all the way to meet the Floor Anchor as some springs have more tension and each cable cut may not be exactly the same as the others .

One of the most important features of our window displays are the Acrylic Pockets we use. All our pockets are made from 3mm commercial grade Acrylic and are cut on a computer operated CNC Router. All the edges of our pockets are polished.

Each pocket has a shorter front top which exposes the top of the paper to make it easy to change the contents from behind.

A1 Portrait is (845H x 625W) and A1 Landscape is (605H x 870W). The A1′s are great for making an impact with your window display. You could have an A1 or two in the middle of your window which will create a focal point that you can use for some impact Signage like specials, add your business name, phone number and website or any message or photograph that will get your window shoppers attention from a distance.

Create separate columns of pockets so you can match different sizes.

A2 Portrait is (600H x 450W) and A2 Landscape is (425H x 625W). These pockets do much the same as the A1′s, their good for making an impact from a distance however A2 is smaller than A1 and sometimes more practical to use in your window.

Mix and Match larger and smaller sizes pockets

A3 Portrait is (425H x 330W) and A3 Landscape is (305H x 450W). Some people use an A3 Landscape pocket to display two A4 Portraits side by side although there are better ways of doing this as you will find out below in the A4 section of this article. A3 Portraits are not widely used and I don’t believe they look anywhere near as good as an A3 Landscape listing.

A4 Portrait Single Pockets are (305H x 235W) and Landscape is 215H x 330W. Single Pockets can look effective is spaced out evenly across the window although this is the most expensive configuration for your window display as these pockets use the most fittings. Another more efficient and cost effective way of displaying A4 Portraits is to use the Triple A4 Portrait Pockets or the Double A4 Portrait Pockets.

Single A4 Portrait Acrylic Window Dispay Pocket

Triple A4 Portrait Pockets are one piece of acrylic that can display three A4 Portrait listings side by side and they are (305H x 675W). The main reason these pockets were created was to reduce costs. The simplest way to explain the cost difference of using these pockets instead of Single Pockets is to compare the number of fittings used for each option. The Triple A4P pocket will use one Acrylic Sleeve, four Sidegrips, two cables to display three documents. The single pocket will use, four Sidegrips and two cables to display one document. Another advantage of the Triple A4P is you can use any two sections of any pocket to display an A3 Landscape document which effectively enables you to display one A4P and one A3L from within the same pocket. This is handy if you want some sort of Signage to go next to a document or for Real Estate Agents if you are selling off the plan to have the picture of the House or Unit with the floor plan beside.

Triple A4 Portrait Window Display Pocket, showing Single A4 Portraits being used in each section.

Triple A4 Portrait Window Display Pocket Showing A4 Portrait and A3 Landscape in the same pocket

Triple A4 Portrait Pocket Empty showing Easy Change Recessed Top

Double A4 Portrait pockets work the same way, they reduce the number of fittings used when compared against single pockets and are (305H x 455W). You display two A4P documents side by side in these pockets or one A3 Landscape. There is a small space 10mm between each document which helps to define each document. The old way of using an A3 Landscape pocket for two A4P’s side by side looked awful as the reader was presented with a mono-block of information. The spacing between each pocket is entirely transparent from the front which means you can use these pockets for A3 Landscape documents also.

Two A4 Portraits side by side

Double A4 Portrait Window Display Pocket showing A3 Landscape Displayed

Double A4 Portrait Pocket Empty

A5 Portrait Pockets are (215H x 168W) and Landscape is (215H x 330W) and are only used in rare occasions and are mainly used when you don’t have much window space but you need to display a lot of product or documents in the space you have. As the A5′s are smaller in size you can achieve this with these pockets.

We will in time provide up to date information about this product, the features, how to use the display for different applications and how to install.